The evolution of the automatic watch movement is a fascinating chapter in watch history that often goes unnoticed. It's a story of innovation, perseverance, and the relentless pursuit of perfection. This article delves into the pivotal moment when John Harwood and Fortis revolutionized mechanical watchmaking with the invention of the automatic wristwatch, a development that has shaped the industry for a century. It's a tale that highlights the power of human ingenuity and the importance of recognizing and celebrating groundbreaking inventions.
The early 1920s were a challenging time for wristwatches. While the wristwatch had gained popularity during the Great War, it was still fragile and required daily manual winding to keep running. This daily ritual was a genuine problem, as the winding process exposed the movement to dust and moisture, leading to wear and tear at the crown's sealing point. The crown, an essential component, was also the weakest link in the mechanical chain, undermining the objective of robust, everyday-use watches.
John Harwood, a British watchmaker, saw this problem differently. He wondered if the watch could be wound without a crown. After years of experimentation, he developed a self-winding system using an oscillating weight that transferred energy to the mainspring through a bumper system. This design, patented in 1924, was revolutionary: the watch could generate its own energy through the wearer's wrist movement.
However, turning this patent into a practical product required a different kind of expertise and industrial execution at scale. Fortis, a Swiss manufacturer founded by Walter Vogt, recognized the potential of Harwood's invention and formed a partnership. Fortis committed to bringing the automatic wristwatch from concept to serial production, a technical challenge that demanded a complete rethink of the watch's construction and the engineering of every component for reliability.
On July 13, 1926, the first Fortis Harwood automatic wristwatches rolled off the assembly line in Grenchen, Switzerland. These watches were groundbreaking, featuring no crown and a rotating bezel for setting the time. The movement powered itself through the wearer's motion, a remarkable innovation that removed a critical component considered essential by every other watchmaker.
The partnership between Fortis and Harwood produced around 30,000 watches, a modest number by today's standards but significant for the time. The automatic winding system evolved rapidly, with full rotors replacing the bumper system for greater efficiency and longer power reserves. Movements became thinner, more refined, and more precise, but the core principle remained unchanged: the watch could draw energy from the wearer's motion.
The story of the automatic wristwatch's invention is often overshadowed by the rise of Rolex's Perpetual rotor system in the post-war decades. However, in 1956, Rolex publicly acknowledged Harwood's invention, correcting its earlier advertising and featuring his portrait in subsequent campaigns. This rare act of industry acknowledgment highlights the importance of recognizing and celebrating groundbreaking inventions.
Today, Fortis continues to build watches in the same Grenchen facility where this chapter of watchmaking history began. The company, founded on the principles of robust mechanical watches for real-world performance, remains committed to its original vision. The centenary of the automatic wristwatch's invention is a reminder of the power of innovation and the enduring impact of a single groundbreaking idea.
The automatic movement has transformed the relationship between the wearer and the watch, making it more practical and rewarding. It has turned the daily ritual of winding from a necessity into a choice, allowing watch enthusiasts to appreciate the mechanical heart of their timepieces without the hassle of daily maintenance. This evolution has made mechanical watches more accessible and appealing to a broader audience.
In conclusion, the invention of the automatic wristwatch by John Harwood and Fortis is a testament to human ingenuity and the power of innovation. It has shaped the industry for a century and continues to inspire and influence watchmakers today. As we celebrate the centenary of this groundbreaking invention, let's appreciate the rich history and the endless possibilities that mechanical watchmaking offers.
